Excursions in North Wales: A Complete Guide to the Tourist through that Romantic Country

The ancient City of Chester is unquestionably the most attractive and convenient starting-place, from which should commence the journey of the tourist, who is desirous of exploring the beautiful and romantic country of North Wales, with its lovely valleys, its majestic mountains, its placid lakes, its rushing torrents, its rural retreats, and its picturesque castles. Before leaving Chester, however, it will amply repay the intelligent traveller to devote some time to the examination of the many objects of interest, with which the “old city” abounds. A ramble round the Walls, embracing a circuit of about two miles, will not only disclose to the stranger a succession of views, illustrative of the quaint architecture and the singular formation of the city, but will reveal a series of landscapes of the most varied and charming description; while the ancient fortifications themselves, with their four gates and rugged towers, serve to exemplify the features of that troubled age, when they were erected for the protection of our ancestors against hostile invasions. Another striking peculiarity of Chester is the construction of the covered promenades, or Rows, in which the principal mercantile establishments are situated: unique and very curious are these old arcades, which are as interesting to the antiquarian, as they are convenient for a quiet lounge to ladies and others engaged in “shopping.” The singular old houses, too, with their elaborately carved gables, of which Watergate-street, Bridge-street, and Northgate-street, furnish some remarkable specimens, will naturally attract attention. Among public edifices, the venerable Cathedral, though not possessing much claim to external elegance, is replete with interest, from the style of its architecture, and the many historical associations which a visit within its sacred precincts awakens. The cloisters and the chapter-house are interesting memorials of olden time; while the beautiful and effective restoration of the choir, which has lately been completed under the skilful superintendence of Mr. Hussey, of Birmingham, commands the admiration of all who take pleasure in ecclesiological improvements. The fittings of the interior have been entirely renovated; the Bishop’s throne, a splendid and characteristic erection, has been restored; a new stone pulpit (the gift of Sir E. S. Walker, of Chester) has been introduced, to harmonise with the style of the building; an altar screen, to divide the Lady Chapel from the choir, has been presented by the Rev. P. W. Hamilton, of Hoole; the eastern windows have been filled with stained glass, of admirable design and execution, by Mr. Wailes, of Newcastle; and a powerful organ, which cost £1000, has been built by Messrs. Gray and Davison, of London. The expenses of the restoration were defrayed by public subscription; and too much praise cannot be given to the Dean (Dr. F. Anson) for the zeal and liberality with which he has promoted these gratifying improvements, as well as for the efficient and orderly manner in which the choral services of the Cathedral are conducted. The fine old Church of St. John the Baptist, which in the tenth century was the Cathedral of the diocese, with the adjacent ruins of the Priory, should not be left unvisited; and St. Mary’s Church also presents, in its roof and monuments, some objects of interest worth examining. Of the ancient Castle, very little, except Julius Cæsar’s tower, remains; but a magnificent modern structure, for military and county purposes, has been erected on the site of the old edifice, after designs by the late Mr. Harrison, of Chester. The shire-hall is an elegant fabric of light-coloured stone, the principal entrance to which is through a portico of twelve columns in double rows, 22 feet high, and 3 feet 1½ inch in diameter, each formed of a single stone. The court-room is a spacious semi-circular hall, lighted from above. The county prison is behind, on a lower level, whence prisoners are brought into the dock by a flight of steps. The extremities of the county-hall are flanked by two uniform elegant buildings, facing each other, appropriated as barracks for the officers and soldiers of the garrison.  In the higher ward is an armoury, where from thirty to forty thousand stand of arms, and other munitions of war, are constantly kept, in the same beautifully arranged manner as at the Tower of London. The spacious open area in front of the Castle is enclosed by a semi-circular wall, surmounted with iron railings; in the centre is the grand entrance, of Doric architecture, greatly admired for its chaste construction and elegant execution. The front view is classical and imposing.